Care & Tricks

Care for your optics

Now that you've chosen your optics, what else do you need? You want to protect your investment. This means keeping them from hitting the ground or other objects and keeping them clean. Here, we will discuss the techniques and gadgets to help you do this efficiently and effectively.


Binoculars can be carried in multiple ways: a neck strap or a harness to keep them available, or in a case or a daypack. Each of these has pros and cons. When people first start birding, they usually don't carry a scope or a camera. All they carry are binoculars, water bottle, and field guide. Since the latter two are carried in packs or on a belt, their hands are free to hold the binoculars, so that they are always ready. Some people put the binocular strap around their necks, some put it over their shoulder, and some wrap it around their wrist. In all cases, they use something to hold their binoculars when they need their hands for some other purpose. As discussed previously, it’s critical to hold binoculars steady. There is a trick to help do this, which requires a wide strap that does not stretch. This technique is discussed below. The point is that while stretchy straps may provide a little bit of extra comfort, straps that don't stretch can help you hold your binoculars steady. Additionally, a wide strap distributes the weight of the binoculars well enough to remove most of the discomfort.

Once a scope and/or a video camera is added to the equation, all this gear is cumbersome, and something has to leave the hands. The solution is to get a binocular harness. These come in various designs. Some cross in the back, others have a vertical strap that runs between the shoulder blades. There are not any particular advantages to either shape. As with binocular straps, these come in stretchy and non-stretchy materials, with the tradeoff being comfort versus steadiness.

Modifying binocular straps to switch between a neck strap and a harness, requires constructing a hook and leader system. The required materials are (2) plastic swivelling snap-hooks, (2) split key rings large enough to accept the hook end of the snap-hooks, (4) rivets, and a rivet kit. With the straps attached to the binocular, cut the leader from the strap so enough of the leader is left on the strap to rivet a snap-hook onto each end of the main part of the strap. Thread each cut end of the strap through the closed loop of a snap-hook and rivet the strap to secure the loop. (A local luggage repair can do the rivetting if necessary.) Repeat this process with the cut end of the leaders and the split key rings. Now the leaders can be hooked onto by either the hooks on the strap or the hooks on the harness.


The simplest way to carry a scope is to mount it on a tripod and carry it over the shoulder. This means the scope must be put down to use the binoculars. For most birders, this is not enough of a problem to warrant other measures. Others have seen a need, and filled it. There are three devices designed to aid in carrying a scope and tripod.

Tripod Straps allow you to sling the tripod over your shoulder, but can be very awkward with a scope mounted on the tripod.

Leg Wraps are foam cushions that wrap around the tripod legs and reduce pressure on the shoulder. Some tripods come with these built in. For tripods that don't have them, they can be purchased already made or made at home using pipe insulation. To fashion leg wraps, purchase the type of insulation that comes with an adhesive strip covered by a plastic strip. Cut the insulation to the desired length, position on the tripod legs, and remove the plastic strip, and fasten the insulation to itself, encasing the tripod leg.

The Tri-Pack is an alternative solution. A triangle-shaped backpack mounts to two legs of your tripod, which you then carry on your back in the same manner as any other backpack. The legs of your tripod can be left extended full-length, allowing you to unsling your scope quickly, or they can be collapsed for going through rough terrain (or for carrying while riding a bicycle or motorcycle). A zippered pouch, accessible only from the side of the Tri-Pack resting safely against your back, holds valuables, field guide, or raingear.

Keeping The Optics Steady

Here are three techniques to help steady binoculars in the field. Below these are some tricks for keeping a scope and tripod steady in the wind.

The face brace technique involves moving your hands back to your face to achieve stability:

  1. Hold the binocular normally.

  2. Slide your hands toward your face on the binocular barrels, until only the pinky and ring fingers (third and fourth) are curled around the back end of the binocular body. The binocular will feel a little nose-heavy, because it’s being supported behind its center of gravity.

  3. Curl each thumb up as though making a fist, and flex your hands so that the second bone in from the tip of the thumb is pressed against your cheekbone.

  4. Finally, curl the first and middle fingers of each hand around the corresponding binocular eyepiece. You will have your hands as though you are peering into a bright window at night.

In this position, the hands will make a solid structural connection between the body of the binocular, through your hands and thumbs, to your face, and should improve how steadily you can hold the instrument.

The sling technique involves using a strap for stability. It is taught by the professional photographers who teach Nikon Photography School, enables people to hold their binoculars (and cameras) more steadily than with other methods.

  1. Attach a long, wide strap to the binoculars. Neoprene is okay but materials that don't stretch are better. Adjust the strap so that it is as long as possible.
  2. Hold the binoculars so they are horizontal and the strap hangs down.
  3. Insert your hands through the strap loop one at a time, grasping the binoculars normally.
  4. Let the strap drape so that your elbows extend through the loop and the strap hits your triceps.
  5. Spread the elbows toward your sides, tightening the strap across your chest.
  6. To hold for lengthy periods, bring your thumbs and wrists closer together on the binoculars and focus from the underside of the binoculars using your thumbs. Alternatively, you could incorporate the baseball cap technique below.
  7. If the strap is not tight enough, readjust to fit.

The benefits of the sling technique are that the arms are tight against the sides of the chest making a stable and restful platform. The strap helps keep the arms from sliding outward. The theory is the same as using a rifle sling: to create a static platform using constrained equal and opposite forces.

The baseball cap technique can be used with either of the prior ones, and involves wearing a baseball-type cap with a stiff brim.

  1. Hold the binoculars normally, or as in one of the techniques above.
  2. With your middle fingers, reach up and grab the brim of the cap.

Scope Tricks

Even with a tripod, sometimes it is difficult to keep a scope steady. Here are some tricks you can use to improve your scope's stability:

  • Hang something heavy below the legs, like a backpack or water bottle.
  • Put a beanbag or a ziplock bag filled with sand or water over the top of the scope.
  • In a high wind, make sure the tripod is positioned so exactly one leg points directly downwind. This makes it harder for the wind to tip your tripod over.

Protecting The Lenses

The key to best viewing is having the best optics. If the lenses get dirty or scratched, viewing quality will obviously suffer. And, as discussed below, the less often lenses must be cleaned, the longer they will last.

Even the least expensive binoculars usually come with cases and / or lens caps. Most middle and higher priced binoculars come with a device called a “rain guard”. These are essentially lens caps that are one-piece and fit over both ocular lenses at once. Rain guards attach to the binocular or binocular strap so they are always available.

Birders with good optics usually use their rain guards. Even in regions that get very little rain, they are very important. As they say, "These ‘food guards’ work well in the rain, too!" They also keep the lenses free of dust in the desert and salt spray on the ocean.

This goes for objective lens caps too. Especially on the ocean, lens caps that attach and hang from the objectives can save a lot of cleaning time. You never know when that Short-tailed Albatross is going to fly by.

While carrying binoculars into the field in a case will slow you getting onto a bird, cases on scopes are a different story. The only scope cases worth considering are those that allow the scope to be mounted on the tripod with the case still on the scope. These cases are designed to zip open at the front and back and allow access to the focusing knob or ring. This will save the body of the scope from scrapes and dings, and may be the difference if the tripod tips over. Zip open cases can also protect the lenses instead the lens caps, permitting quicker access to the scope.

One other trick to help protect the scope is to always extend the lens shade right after opening the case. The lens shade will help keep things from hitting the lens, and will absorb some of the energy of a fall if the tripod tips towards the objective lens.

Cleaning Your Lenses

"Always determine whether or not your telescope needs cleaning. Specks of dust or pieces of lint do not impair the visual or photographic performance of your telescope, but excessive cleaning can cause small scratches, which harm performance more than lint or dust. These scratches cause light scattering, which is VERY harmful to optical performance. Professional telescopes used nightly, only need cleaning every six months or so."

[From a Celestron manual]

Before cleaning the lenses, blow the visible dust off with a mechanical blower (not a canned aerosol product) or brush it lightly with a lens brush. If this removes the problem, do not clean the lens further.

Rather than buy commercial cleaning solutions, you can make your own simply. A good cleaning solution is a 50-50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water with a few drops of biodegradable washing detergent. Do not use breath, saliva, or commercial solutions for cleaning eyeglass lenses. These solutions contain silicones, which can be difficult to remove from lenses. Kodak, R.O.R. (Residue Oil Remover), and Kleer-Vu are proven commercial cleaning solutions.

Use cotton balls of natural cotton or commercial lens cleaning cloths to clean lenses. Use fresh cotton balls or cloth often. Paper tissue can scratch the coatings on the lens.

Make sure the cotton ball or cloth is not dripping wet -- you do not want liquid to penetrate the instrument. Cleaning solutions are solvents and may damage the glue holding the lenses in place. Wipe gently with the wet cotton or cloth; do not rub or apply much pressure. Then, wipe with a clean, dry cotton ball or cloth.

If the lenses have dried-on salt-spray, gently wet the salt deposits with damp cotton or tissue. Allow the deposits to soften before cleaning normally.

To avoid frequent cleanings, always store the optics with the cap on.

If the lenses are scratched, consider contacting the manufacturer to inquire about having the lenses polished and re-coated. This may prove less expensive than buying new equipment.

Many birders rave about the LensPen cleaning system available from several manufactuerers. Camera users, both still and video, should also get the Mini LensPen. Its smaller cleaning tip will be able to fit into the viewfinder.

For further information, refer to "Tools of the Trade," William Van Meter, Birding, June 1988


  • Stretchy binocular straps are more comfortable but give less stability. Harnesses free your hands for other tasks.
  • There are several tricks for holding binoculars steady.
  • Extra care is needed to keep a scope safe and dteady in the wind.
  • Too much cleaning can harm lenses, so it is better to prevent them from getting dirty.
  • If the lenses require cleaning, brush the dirt off first. Use only cleaning solutions approved for coated lenses.

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Learn About Optics

Day Optics

Designs - Quality, compacts, porro and roof prism designs for binoculars and scopes...
Designations and Considerations - Designation values, eye relief, weight & cups, exit pupil, and twilight factor...
Additional Consideration - Focusing, field of view, depth of field, weather proofing and nitrogen fill...
Optic Components & Image Quality - Lenses, mirrors, coatings, aberrations, distortions, and alignments...
Spotting Scopes - Construction, Objective lens, eyepieces, angled or straight, and focusing...
Tripods - Heads, legs, monopods, shoulder stocks, and window mounts...
Digiscoping - About, power, editing, considerations, cameras, techniques, and effects...
Care & Tricks - Holding techniques, cleaning, carrying, and protecting your optics...

Night Vision

Starlight Technology - NV Types, Starlight Technology defined, basic design and IR Illuminators...
Starlight Technology Night Vision Generations and Devices - Generation 1 to 4 - levels of NV technology, types of devices and their uses...
Use & Care - How to use, controls, and care for NV devices, extending capabilities...
Digital Night Vision and Thermal-Imaging - Digital NV and Thermal Imaging, how they work and compare to standard NV...

Buying Guide

Binoculars - All the factors to consider when buying binoculars.
Bins for kids - Special Considerations for children's binoculars.
Challenged - Special considerations with binoculars for the physically challenged.
Spotting Scopes - All the factors to consider when buying a spotting scope.
Tripods - Selecting the best tripod for your scope.
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