Support Systems
Optics
support systems vary greatly in design and size (and therefore weight).
Each design had enough benefits that someone thought to make them.
The parameters determining the best choice of tripods and other support
systems vary with their quality and design, the conditions in which they are
used, and preferences of the individual using them. For the most part, this
section deals with supporting scopes, but you can also support
binoculars and cameras with these devices. As with everything to do with
optics, there are no perfect solutions. You have to give a benefit to
get one. Usually, the tradeoff is stability versus weight, and sometimes
weight versus price.
Tripods
A good tripod is as important as a good scope. A flimsy tripod provides
a poor image regardless of how good the scope is. The proper tripod fits
the user's height, preferably with as little rise on the center column
as possible. The longer the rise on the center column, the less stable
the tripod will be. When calculating the proper tripod height, remember
to add about four inches for the height of the head, another three to
four inches for the height of the scope's eyepiece above the tripod mount,
and subtract the distance of your eyes from the top of your head. Scopes
with angled eyepieces don't require as tall a tripod.
Good birding tripods are heavy enough to minimize vibrations
from wind, but light enough for easy transportation; compact, again
for easy transport but tall enough to be comfortable during extended
use; quick to set up and take down, with independently adjustable legs
for uneven terrain. Avoid tripods with center columns adjusted with
a crank. Those cranks are slow and noisy. Such cranks may be able removable.
Thus, a birding tripod is a compromise of weight versus stability,
and between compactness and height.
Tripods
have two basic parts: the legs (which includes the center column) and
the head. Less expensive tripods usually come complete with heads, while
the more expensive ones usually come as components. This lets you select
the combination of legs and head that best fits your needs.
Legs
Top-of-the-line models have legs and center column made of carbon
fiber, with connecting parts made of magnesium. These cost from $300.00
to $600.00 (legs only), or about double the equivalent sized aluminum tripods, but pay
off in being at least as sturdy with around 30% less weight. If you can afford
one that fits your size requirements, get it.
Most birders use
high-end tripods whose legs and center column are made of thick extruded aluminum,
and the other parts of sturdy plastic or metal. They range in price from just under
$100.00 to about $250.00 and in weight from four to seven pounds. We recommend
this class of tripod, especially if you have a high-end scope and can't afford a carbon
fiber model.
Top- and high-end tripods are built to stand up to heavy use and adverse conditions. Instead of having spreader bars, most have the ability to have each leg spread to a different angle for uneven terrain. Such tripods seldom feature a hand crank on the center column.
Inexpensive tripods are usually very lightweight. They range in price from
$25.00 to $50.00, and in weight from three to four pounds including the head. Most
have legs made out of thin aluminum with plastic for the other parts. They are
often flimsy and hard to repair. They may suffice with low-end scopes
(50mm to 60mm objectives), but cannot give adequate support for the
larger and heavier scopes. Many have a hand crank for raising and
lowering the center column, and spreader bars that keep the legs from
spreading too far apart. It is difficult to find tripods in this class that
extend high enough for tall people. We do not recommend these tripods
for digiscoping or larger scopes.
Fig. #1: Tripod Legs
To
make them compact for storage and portability, all tripods have legs
made of multiple sections that nest inside each other (see Fig. #1). On most tripods,
the leg section that touches the ground is the thinnest, and the section
at the top is the widest. A few tripods have been designed with the leg
sections inverted, so that the widest section touches the ground. This
is an advantage if you spend a lot of your birding time in sand, snow,
water, or mud, because it moves the place where the lowest section meets
the next section away from the ground, thus reducing the possibility of
dirt getting into the joint and fouling the mechanism.
Bogen/Manfrotto has recently introduced a new tripod
called the NeoTec. It is billed as the fastest-opening tripod in the
world. The NeoTec has a unique locking system in which the locks are
internal to the legs. To extend the legs, just grab the lowest (and
outermost) leg segment and pull. To retract the legs, press a button
at the top of each leg and push the leg segments back up. To level
this tripod on uneven ground, extend the legs, place the feet on the
ground, press all three unlock buttons simultaneously, and position
the head to the proper angle. When the tripod is where you want it,
release the buttons.
To
keep the legs extended to the desired length, tripods use compression
mechanisms at the section joints (see Fig#1 insets). There are three kinds of leg lock
designs. One is a coaxial collar. These are the most reliable, as they
are self-adjusting, but are the slowest to use. Next is a collar similar
to a hose clamp in that a screw mechanism on one side of the collar does
the loosening and tightening. Some of these use a quick-action lever
while others use a screw with a knob on the end. Both of these can be
adjusted easily in the field. Low-end tripods have quick-action levers that
move a friction plate inside the leg assembly. These are most prone to
failure and very hard to fix on your own.
Some
tripods allow you to change the type of feet on the legs. Instead of
plain rubber feet, you can get feet that twist to expose metal spikes
for rough or icy terrain. For snow, sand, and mud, there are "snow
shoes" that strap onto the tripod's feet so they stay on top of the
surface instead of sinking in. This saves a lot of foot cleaning and
protects the lower leg joint.
Heads
Most birders prefer tripod heads designed for video camera use.
This is because there are only two degrees of freedom that concern us
- pitch (tilting your scope up or down), and yaw (panning left or
right).
Rarely is there a need for roll (spinning the scope on its lens axis).
Roll control is only important if you are doing photography. If you are
digiscoping with a high-end scope, you will usually have roll control
built into the scope mount or the camera mount.
Heads
for low-end tripods are usually built onto the tripod, so you have to
select your tripod with the quality of the head in mind. Always try
moving the head on the tripod before you buy it. If it sticks too much,
you will have a hard time getting on the bird. Look for tripods that
come with "fluid heads".
High-end
heads are sold separately from the legs. They will usually have the
designation "micro fluid". The fluid helps the head move
smoothly by dampening vibrations. These heads, when adjusted properly,
will stay pointing where you leave them until you move them again. This
allows for one-hand control without the need to lock the head into
place, which will slow you down for the next bird and otherwise occupy
your focusing hand. A good head will usually cost from $70.00 to $80.00
and weigh about 1.5 pounds.
Another
head design favored by many photographers is the ball head. This is a
ball-in-socket joint with a mounting platform on top. A lever locks the
ball in place. A variation on this design is a mini-ball with a
pistol-grip type locking mechanism. Some people love this head but
others have problems aiming it. If you haven't had the opportunity to
try one in the field, stick to the video head style.
An important aspect of head design is how the scope or
camera attaches to the head. All use a 1/4" or 3/8" screw
to attach the two. When switching between scope and camera on the tripod,
or transporting the scope and tripod separately, repeatedly screwing
and unscrewing the scope from the head is cumbersome and slow. Further,
the screw-on mechanism wears out fairly rapidly, and eventually loses
the ability to hold the optic steady at all. The solution is a head
that uses quick-release plates. These heads have a receptacle for a
plate that screws onto the scope or camera and stays there. Purchase
a plate for each device used on the tripod, and snap them in and out
as needed. Quick-release plates and heads feature different plate designs,
so be sure everything matches.
Monopods
As
the name suggests, monopods are supports with one leg instead of three.
They are useful when you want to further reduce the amount of weight
you're carrying. While monopods can be used with scopes in an emergency,
they are most useful with a still
or video
camera. You will need a head for your monopod for pitch control. Make
sure your quick release plates fit both heads. You want to keep the head
directly over the foot, to maximize
stability.
Shoulder
Stocks
Shoulder
stocks are devices that look like a rifle stock with a strap that goes
over your shoulder from the butt. This is a way of further reducing
weight. Not many birders use them, but it is another option that might
work for you. Shoulder stocks are excellent for following the path of
a moving bird, but they do take some practice. With a stock, the scope
is only as steady as the arm supporting it and fatigue is a major issue.
Therefore, as with monopods, we recommend that shoulder pods only be
used with cameras.Also, using anything that resembles a firearm can be
problematic in some areas.
Window Mounts
Birders often use a car as a mobile blind. Window mounts
allow attachment of a scope or camera to a slightly raised window. Some
window mounts require a second head for use; others feature a mini ball-and-head
design, which is more convenient. A fixed head requires the user to move
their head to the window mount. As with tripods, there can be issues
of head and mount compatibility.
Conclusions
-
Tripods
are a compromise in height, weight, and price.
-
Video
heads are best for birding but not for photography.
-
Monopods
and shoulder stocks are light weight alternatives that are best left
for use with still and video cameras.
-
Window
mounts help you turn your car into a moving blind.
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